The short answer
- Every size has a published cut-out, below. Use the numbers, and do not scale off a drawing.
- Plan for the full unit depth behind the face, plus about 40 mm beside the port edge for plugs.
- The card slot ends up behind the wall. Plan how you will reach it before you cut, or use network sync.
- Download the STEP model for your size and check it against your wall before you cut anything final.
Cut-out sizes
| Size | Cut-out, mm | Cut-out, in | Outside, mm | Lip per side, mm | Depth, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10.1 in | 276.5 x 176.5 | 10.89 x 6.95 | 293.6 x 193.6 | 8.55 | 53.5 |
| 11.6 in | 311.7 x 206.5 | 12.27 x 8.13 | 323.7 x 218.5 | 6.00 | 51.5 |
| 13.3 in | 357.4 x 229 | 14.07 x 9.02 | 373.6 x 245.2 | 8.10 | 57 |
| 15.6 in | 403 x 252 | 15.87 x 9.92 | 420 x 269 | 8.50 | 70 |
| 17.3 in | 441 x 274 | 17.36 x 10.79 | 458 x 291 | 8.50 | 67 |
| 18.5 in | 470 x 290.9 | 18.5 x 11.45 | 486.5 x 307.4 | 8.25 | 67 |
| 21.5 in | 540.6 x 328.6 | 21.28 x 12.94 | 557 x 345 | 8.20 | 63 |
| 23.8 in | 589.8 x 359.8 | 23.22 x 14.17 | 606 x 376 | 8.10 | 67 |
From each spec sheet. The lip is half the difference between the outside width and the cut-out width.
Portrait is the same opening turned 90 degrees. So a 21.5 inch in portrait needs 328.6 mm wide by 540.6 mm tall.
What the numbers do not tell you
The spec sheet gives one nominal opening for each size. It gives no tolerance, corner radius or panel thickness range. So agree those with your installer, and cut a test opening in scrap or leave the finished trim until the unit is in hand. A cut that is too small can be fixed. A cut that is too big has only the lip to hide it, which is about 6 to 8.5 mm depending on size. The 11.6 inch has the smallest, at 6 mm.
Ask us for panel-mount clamps when you order. We will confirm what suits your panel thickness.
Depth behind the wall
The overall depth runs from 51.5 mm on the 11.6 inch to 70 mm on the 15.6 inch. Treat that as the clear depth you need behind the wall face. Then allow about 40 mm beside the edge with the ports, because plugs stick out sideways and cables need to bend. The 40 mm is our suggestion and is not on the spec sheet.
Look at what hides in the cavity: blocking, conduit, insulation and fire stopping. A fire-rated wall is a question for your architect or local building authority before you cut, since an opening can affect the rating.
Heat
The -10 to 60 °C rating is the temperature around the unit, and a closed cavity can run warmer than the room. The unit draws 18 W static, and that heat has to go somewhere. Leave some air around the rear housing. If the cavity is closed, or shares its space with other equipment, measure the temperature inside it with the screen running.
Getting to the card slot
This is the mistake people make. The microSD slot and the USB ports are on the unit's edge, which is now inside the wall. You have a few options:
- Load it once and leave it. If the content rarely changes, pull the unit when it does.
- Bring a USB port out. Run a short USB extension from the unit to a cover plate or a hidden spot nearby, and update with a stick. Try this on your unit with your cable before closing the wall.
- Sync over the network. Run a LAN cable or use Wi-Fi, and have the player pull from your own HTTPS server. No visit needed.
- Make an access panel. A lift-off plate or a removable section of trim beside the port edge.
Also think about which way the port edge faces. In portrait it is on the left or the right, and you can choose. Put it on the side with space.
The IP65 front and your panel
IP65 means dust-tight and protected against water jets, under the IEC 60529 standard. On these units it applies to the front face only. Whether that protection carries across the joint between the unit and your panel depends on how the joint is sealed, and the spec sheet does not settle it. If you are counting on a sealed panel, tell us about it when you ask for a quote.
Sequence for a clean install
- Download the STEP model and the spec sheet for your size from downloads.
- Choose portrait or landscape, and which side the port edge goes.
- Open up the wall, or confirm the cavity depth from drawings.
- Get the power feed in place. See the power guide.
- Cut the opening. Do not finish the trim yet.
- Test fit, connect power and load content. Check the picture before anything closes.
- Finish the wall, and leave the access you planned.
Where this is the wrong choice
- Walls with no depth. If you have under about 50 mm behind the face, flush will not work on any size. Use a wall bracket.
- Glass, stone or a fire-rated wall. Those are specialist cuts, and any of them can rule out a recess. Ask first.
- Screens swapped often. Removing a recessed unit is more work. A surface mount is easier to service.
- A sealed panel in a wet area. Treat IP65 as a front-face rating, and check the whole assembly with whoever is responsible for it.
Questions
What size cut-out does a 21.5 inch signage display need?
540.6 by 328.6 mm (21.28 by 12.94 inches). The table on this page lists every size.
How deep does a wall need to be for a flush screen?
At least the overall unit depth, which is 51.5 to 70 mm by size, plus about 40 mm beside the port edge for plugs.
How do I change content on a flush mounted screen?
Bring a USB port out on an extension, leave an access panel beside the port edge, or sync over the network from your own server.
Does flush mounting keep the IP65 rating?
IP65 applies to the front face of the unit. Whether it carries across the joint with your panel depends on how that joint is sealed, so tell us about the panel when you ask for a quote.
Planning information, not legal or engineering advice. Rules differ by place: check codes and permits with your local authority and your licensed trades.